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1. #SILVERFAST 8.8 NOT SCANNING FRAMES CORRECTLY MANUAL#
2. #SILVERFAST 8.8 NOT SCANNING FRAMES CORRECTLY SOFTWARE#

While positive film seems so much easier to scan, obviously you can see the positive image already, it seems some kind of mystery to scan print film. The main part of this section is the video tutorial that can be found below. Now I was finally able to put together this site with lots of useful information to get started with scanning color film. I always wanted to write about scanning color negative film. The 120 Film Mask is now my go to solution for mounting 120 film on a flatbed scanner. It took me several test scans to find the optimum height.

I made a 2mm thick rubber support for the Digitaliza and my scans immediately looked much better. After some experimentation I discovered that I can increase scan sharpness by increasing the distance between the scanner glass and the film. By coincident I stumbled upon the Digitaliza 120 film mask and as I used a 35mm Digitaliza before I thought I would give it a try. I still think they are the cheapest solution for good results. This is why I continued to use the original holders for quite a while. They deal with curled film quite nicely, but the loss of sharpness is not acceptable in my opinion. Some solutions use additional glass and all of them reduce sharpness by a certain level. I have tried many mounting solutions for my Epson flatbed scanner and I was never happy with the results. My Mounting Solution for a flatbed Scanner This filter especially targets defects that cannot be detected by hardware based infrared dust and scratch removal.

#SILVERFAST 8.8 NOT SCANNING FRAMES CORRECTLY SOFTWARE#

Everybody who is using their scanner software might have noticed a new filter which is called SRDx. LaserSoft Imaging, the company behind SilverFast has recently released a Photoshop plugin for this task.

#SILVERFAST 8.8 NOT SCANNING FRAMES CORRECTLY MANUAL#

Of course you cannot expect magic and manual retouching with the afore-mentioned tools is always required especially for larger defects as the filters have a harder time to deal with them. Photoshop has its own "Dust & Scratch" filter which already works nicely.

These filters target defects and blend these defects into the surrounding pixels. Among the clone and healing tools in Photoshop we can also work with filters. Canned air and dust blowers as well as small brushes are your best weapon if you want to avoid the elaborate manual retouching process. If you print in the darkroom you have no other choice than cleaning your negatives carefully before putting them into the enlarger. In the end there are always small dust particles on the film which we need to be cloned out during post-processing after scanning. But over the last years or so a new method became more and more popular: camera scanning! Read MoreĮverybody who is developing film at home knows that dust is your worst enemy and while it is surely the best practice to avoid getting dust on your negatives, it seems like a fight that we cannot win. Most labs do a brilliant job and deliver an outstanding quality mainly due to the fact that they own the best machines for this job like the Fuji Frontier SP3000 or a Noritsu HS-1800. Nevertheless a good lab can do this job for you if you manage to clearly communicate ideas and artistic vision. You can make choices that dramatically alter the scan like color and tonal correction. Home scanning with a dedicated film scanner or a flatbed scanners is a big challenge but if mastered correctly it can provide you the artistic freedom over the final image which a lab unfortunately cannot do, simply because they have to guess your interpretation of the negative. But here we are and I have new ideas and topics for upcoming blog posts which I want o share with all of you.įor those of you who follow this blog for a little while now, I have always been a big fan of various ways to scan negatives. What a year! Probably everyone had different plans for the last months and so did I.